Training Your Miniature Pinscherđž
Min Pins are very intelligent and capable dogs. This means they can learn something very fast. However, they are also wilful, headstrong and stubborn. This means that when it comes to training they need an owner who is persistent and has oodles of patience with even the basics, which can be a common theme with many toy breeds.
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“As with all dog breeds, training is best undertaken as early as possible and as this breed can be stubborn-itâs not uncommon for a Min Pin to learn something very well one day then seem to âforgetâ it the next day-that’s where the persistence comes in. These little guys will definitely test you!”
Craig, Min Pin enthusiast
Some of the most important aspects of training that you need patience with is house breaking and learning to walk politely on a lead. Teaching your Min Pin the importance of boundaries with you, other people and dogs are also important, as well as being confident when he’s left on his own, as this breed can suffer from separation anxiety. Issues common to Min Pins suffering from this condition that owners have reported, aside from the inability to relax when left alone, is excessive barking when people knock at the door, running away when theyâre outdoors or off-lead if given the chance and aggression or fear with strangers. We cannot stress the importance of basic training for this breed and this section we will go into the best training methods and clear guidelines on how to begin. All behavioural issues seen in adult dogs across all breeds stem from improper or no training in puppyhood. The Min Pin despite their diminutive size, can be hellish to live with if they have not undergone basic training. We’ve seen it. It’s so disheartening how many owners have not given their Min Pin basic training. It is a common misconception that toy or small breeds do not need the same training as a larger breed, presumably because they are small and easier to control. Some owners believing that as they cannot do serious damage in an attack that they don’t need to understand how to behave. This laziness towards training is damaging to the lives of toy and small breeds as a whole. There is an abundance of tiny tearaway dogs that donât know how to behave properly which we think is perpetuating the belief that these breeds are untrainable. Although dogs are not born trained (you have to do that) a dog is born ready to please and work with his owner, after many centuries of cooperating with humans. See Caring For And Raising Your New Miniature Pinscher Puppy for further information on what your Min Pin puppy needs to grow into a happy, confident dog and well-behaved dog. We believe in being effective leaders to our dogs and we will discuss some of the training methods we use with Mikki below. Amongst our fantastic team we have Lee who has had dogs all his life and worked in training them, both his and other people’s. With our combined experience and knowledge we hope to shed some light on your path to begin training your Min Pin. You may want to consider obedience classes to begin your dog’s training or hire a trainer to work with which we thoroughly recommend if you need extra help.
Positive Reinforcement As The Best Training Method For The Miniature Pinscherđž
We all know dogs respond and cooperate best when they know theyâll be rewarded for it. And very often, these rewards tend to be food. Toys can also be used as rewards but of course, as food is a powerful driver in dogs it will always yield the best results in training. We believe in positive reinforcement and support it as a primary training method for when you begin to train your Min Pin basic obedience and when you want to reinforce desired behaviours. Coupling food rewards with verbal praise is highly effective. The basic premise is to teach your Min Pin puppy or adult; he does something correct, he gets rewarded; he does something wrong, he does not get rewarded. This means that your Min Pin is trained without aversive methods i.e. no scaring or intimidation, force or physical pain in order to comply. There are important caveats to this as we’ll discuss below. With positive reinforcement there are no corrections and the âpunishmentâ is withholding the reward e.g. the treat. The advantages are clear because you can constantly reinforce an action in succession and your Min Pin will want to play ball eventually, as something wonderful always follows. What’s important to remember is that you must always reward the treat immediately after the desired behaviour, so heâll form associations. Always use plenty of verbal praise such as ‘good boy’ and make a fuss along with the food reward. Consistency is key. When your Min Pin is very consistent in showing desired behaviours and has incorporated them as part of his daily routine, you can lessen the frequency of the rewards. Remember to always praise your Min Pin as this strengthens his understanding of what you want from him and the bond between you. If you work with a trainer, youâll want to ensure that you apply the same techniques and continue the same training as they have with your dog. If you have boarded your Min Pin into a positive reinforcement training camp for a short stay, you should pick up where they left off when your dog comes home to you. There are also popular aids to positive reinforcement training that can be useful to you. One of them is clickers which work as precursor to rewards. The click sound it makes when the button is pressed acts a precise indicator to your Min Pin that heâs going to be rewarded and an association will be made in an instant. Because of the ‘click means treat’ reflex that is created, the clicker can also be used to steer him away from undesirable behaviours. Clickers are great for all manner of training including teaching your Min Pin tricks.
High Value Treatsđž
You may have heard of the term high value to describe food rewards used exclusively for the purposes of training your dog. Usually they are highly palatable and desirable for dogs and have a strong smell. This could be fresh pieces of meat e.g. turkey/chicken/beef or broken up into small bits or moist meat-based treats, making them far more enticing for your dog than ordinary dog treats such as, say, biscuits. In simple terms think of these training treats as a potent bribery tool. The idea is that offering them to your dog during training sessions will make him more willing to listen. If you donât want to use human foods such as pieces of meat, go for the higher quality more expensive treats that your dog either hasnât had before or doesnât have often (hence the term high value) and only use them for training sessions. These treats should always be as close to real foods as possible e.g. a high meat content meaning no dry or biscuit-type mixes but rather have a high moisture content and be strong-smelling. You can find quality nutritious treats on this page. Another thing is a training treat should always be a food that your Min Pin desires and gets super excited about. There’s no point in offering up something that he’s really not into because you want maximum cooperation from him. Some food-orientated dogs will go for anything you offer up as a treat but for those dogs who are extra stubborn and strong-willed, high value treats will give you an advantage. So it depends on your dog. As with all training treats, opt for something low in calories or fats because treat consumption does add up if you are training your Min Pin on a daily basis. You should always break the treats up into very small bits to lessen the amount your dog consumes as too much can also cause diarrhea and weight gain.
What If My Dog Doesn’t respond To Food Rewards?
Whether or not your Min Pin is naturally more food-driven than the average dog, we’ll tackle this question firstly by asking, is he overfed or overweight? If the answer is yes, it is possible that he is not motivated enough to learn and follow commands to get what your offering. This is because he’s not hungry enough or is in a constant state of satiation because he never gets a chance to experience hunger. In this case, you can either search for a food reward that he cannot resist or get him on a diet to get down to his ideal weight first, which can take some time. We support the latter option. See here for more about how to correctly feed your Min Pin.
Secondly but most importantly, are you using the food reward in the correct way? The food’s place in your dog’s training must be used to teach him and reinforce desirable behaviours before he has a chance to show undesirable behaviours and when he does, other methods should be used to manage them i.e. not food. Food should not be used as a tool when your Min Pin is in the midst of misbehaving. For example if he is 100% focusing on playing with another dog outside and is not responding to your recall (when you call your dog), you should not be attempting to entice him with a food reward. You must have seen this yourself with other owners and their dogs when you’re out and about. The owner desperately attempts to wave a treat around almost begging their their dog to return to them but the dog completely ignores them. This is because the excitement and pleasure of playing with the other dog trumps the treat. When owners make this common mistake they believe that the treats being offered are not desirable enough or that they simply don’t work on their dogs. This isn’t true. It is because they are being used within the wrong context, when instead in the situation where he is not responding to recall outside, he should immediately be put on a long-lead and restrained to stop the undesirable behaviour and then have his recall worked on some more until it is perfected. Undesirable behaviour should never be managed with food. This is why patience is so important. Remember that your dog is in training all the time until he is fully obedience trained and trusted to respond to your commands 100% of the time.
Hungry Dogs Perform Better
Feeding your dog according to his ideal weight enables him to appreciate food and experience normal hunger. It’s the exactly the same with us. If we grazed all day from when we wake up and go to sleep we wouldn’t experience actual hunger either. Many owners keep their dogs’ food bowls topped up (especially kibble feeders) allowing them to free-feed and give them treats throughout the day, causing some dogs to never really be hungry. Feeding your dog according to his ideal weight will not only really improve his health, but will allow him to experience hunger (and anticipate and enjoy his meals more!) and can also really improve his training sessions too. For the best results, we recommend that you shouldn’t feed your dog before a training session. This is because hungry dogs will be more alert and ready to work for their food rewards. This is not to say that a well-fed dog won’t be but it on the whole, dogs are wired to perform better cognitively when their brains think they need to find food. As well as this, your Min Pin’s food intake needs to be reduced to make room for the added calories he’ll be taking in through food rewards. If you are training as you go throughout the day e.g. at home or on his walks, then divide his meals up so he isn’t completely satiated. This depends on when you feed and how many meals he gets.
“The reason dogs often ignore a food reward in favour of a more exciting and fun activity such as running to greet another dog is usually because they have not been trained in an environment where there are many, if any, distractions. Your dog may perform the desired behaviour to a tee at home but as soon as he’s in the park with tons of other dogs to greet, he completely loses focus and the ability to respond to things like food rewards. This is why training must be undertaken in a variety of different environments with differing levels of stimuli.”
Lee, Min Pin enthusiast
A clicker acts a positive reinforcer in training, whereby a treat follows the sound of a ‘click’
Using Positive Reinforcement Training Properly And Understanding Punishmentsđž
As we touched on above, it is important to understand how to use this training method correctly. Food rewards are a bribe but only to be used when your Min Pin is complying with you and 100% focused on you. When he is not complying you should also never resort to aversive methods to âpunishâ him such as shouting or threatening to hit him. Physical force, pain through hitting, intimidating your Min Pin by shouting are all the wrong things to incorporate into any training. With an emotionally delicate breed such as the Min Pin, arbitrary methods of punishment such as this can actually be damaging. These are sensitive dogs that are known for submissive peeing when theyâre frightened of their owners angry reactions e.g. your Min Pin can get into the habit of peeing on the spot the moment you approach them, even if itâs to give him some affection. Fear is a very poor state of mind for your dog to be in when you want cooperation from him. If your dog is in a state of fear because heâs being punished for not performing the correct action, he is not going to be a primed state of mind to learn something and rather will just be overwhelmed by being frightened. The argument of not using force, even if itâs to physically position his body into a sitting position, is because you want your Min Pin to understand and comply with you of his own volition. This allows for much better results than you having to force him to do so by physically manipulating his body, leading to hit and miss results. A dog has to know what action to perform by himself when he hears a particular command without your assistance (force). You want him to want to comply with you. Thatâs a properly trained dog. There are however some mild aversive methods you can use to remind your dog of what he should be doing which are best used in combination with other methods. An example would be saying firmly ânoâ or another word to convey the same thing to let him know that when he is about to pull on the lead, you do not approve. Firm vocal corrections can be used as part of guiding him to do the right thing instead of a true punishments. Another example can be a firm tug on the lead accompanied by vocal correction and should only be used as part of lead training. Always keep these corrections very swift, light and only use where appropriate. You want to be an effective leader to your dog and for that you need balance sensitivity and compassion with assertiveness.
“Dogs are happiest when they are lead and guided by an effective but compassionate leader who also shows them love and affection. The best results are yielded when your dog is happy to cooperate with you because he wants to and not because he is bullied, coerced or forced which can lead to misunderstanding and distrust at worst. Dogs need to be programmed on what to do and what not to do and should not be left to their own devices otherwise you will have an unruly animal on your hands that doesn’t know how to behave, which can be a nightmare”.
Lee, Min Pin enthusiast
Mikki as an older puppy wearing a choke collar. Thinking that these aversive training tools will be effective in the long run is erroneous thinking because your dog can learn only to avoid the punishment (choke collar) when it’s present and misbehave when it’s not. And that’s if they work at all. Often these punitive tools fail because the dog learns to live with the discomfort while continuing to pull on the lead, clearly showing that they have not learned the desired behaviour for walking on a lead. This also means they are highly unsuitable for small breeds with delicate windpipes as the constant pulling can cause serious damageÂ
Aside from this, harsh treatment and being scolded for doing the wrong thing can make him a more anxious dog, mistrustful and less willing to cooperate with you overall. This can damage the bond between the both of you. The sometimes stubbornness, impatience and liking to get itâs own way attitude of the Min Pin breed must be approached and handled maturely by a patient and understanding owner. As with all relationships, you and your dog being no exception, communication and understanding is key.
Aversive Training Methods And Aversive Tools In Positive Reinforcement Trainingđž
Today the use of aversive dog training methods including the use of tools are controversial with many modern dog trainers and proponents of positive reinforcement training against them. Dominance theory is behind this kind of approach to training which teaches handlers or owners to behave like a wolf pack leader causing a dog to submit during training and to force him to behave in desirable ways through the use of punishments. For many decades it was widely believed that dogs needed to be treated as subordinate and in a harsh no-nonsense manner using techniques such as dominance rolls and painful corrections such as hitting. Prong/choke/shock/vibration collars and compressed air are examples of tools used as part of aversive training and are designed to startle or cause varying degrees of discomfort to your dog when he displays undesirable behaviours, just as certain methods of correction do.
Do They Work?
Positive punishment and negative reinforcement are methods designed to be emotionally or physically upsetting for dogs, so they learn more quickly to avoid the undesirable behaviour. In theory. Thatâs because dogs can learn to supress behaviour and cooperate only when they know theyâll be punished for it, as in the case when theyâre wearing a shock collar and not because they actually want to cooperate. Some dogs may always need to wear it meaning that havenât actually learned correct behaviours but more how to avoid the punishments. In a common-sense way, you could come to the conclusion that long-term, these aversive methods donât hold water. Positive reinforcement trainers say that using rewards as a reinforcer as opposed to punishments are far more motivating for dogs and make for more effective and efficacious training. There is also new research coming to light that these methods of training can cause new behavioural problems in some dogs such as those that are fear-related including aggression. With the Min Pin being an emotionally sensitive breed, we definitely do not back aversive training methods at all especially the incorrect use of aversive collars which can also cause serious damage to any small breed that pulls badly on a lead as they have delicate windpipes. It is also the fact that many owners who do not implement proper training use these collars incorrectly, jerking them harshly causing more physical pain to their dog. Not understanding that plenty of patience is needed and instead resorting to anger and frustration, makes aversive methods border on abusive in some cases. This does nothing to teach dogs the correct behaviours and instead keeps them trapped in a cycle of fear and for the owner, frustration. To avoid any possible negative consequences, many trainers now prefer to train dogs in a punishment-free way. We believe itâs far better to manipulate and change your dogâs behaviour through rewards and real understanding and love without resorting to cruel and unnecessary methods, which can compound behavioural problems and seriously damage your relationship with your dog. All that being said, aversive collars can be used in a humane way and actually be very effective, providing you keep to positive training methods and only use the collars when absolutely needed.
Dogs Need Structure
All species of canids have certain fundamentals coded into their genes and one of the most important of these is your dogâs need for structure within a family setting or household. This is canine social structure and it plays out in all wild dog packs, not just wolves. Dogs need to know their place in a family or home in terms of where they are in the hierarchy. An example could be you, your partner and another dog. One of you needs to assume leadership and thatâs also the person who is charge of every day training, feeding and walks, as well as other important activities in a dogâs life. Second in the hierarchy will be your partner who also shares responsibility for the training and other things and then itâs your dog. The other dog in the household depending on age, sex, breed and personality, may come before or after your dog. Puppies typically are last in a family hierarchy however that can change once the puppy hits puberty. Itâs important to note that dogs do not see one another or their human family members as equals, even though through our romantic human lens weâd like to believe they do. Two dogs in a family or as part of a multi-dog household may cuddle together but be sure that they have sorted out who is the alpha at some point and one of the dogs will be submissive to the other. The only time the position can change is if the beta dog challanges the alpha which is sometimes seen when dogs suddenly begin to squabble and fight, seemgly out of nowhere or when one dog becomes older or senior, much to the confusion of their human owners. In this circumstance the younger beta dog may see an opportunity to assume alpha. However this hierarchy which is linear in nature and therefore simple can be kept in order through training and as a human leader, you must support the natural order of the family in both dogsâ eyes. If you understand which of your dogs is alpha then youâll understand how to keep the order. Therefore structural hierarchy is intimately tied with training for your dog and is why your Min Pin puppy must have one member of the household who assumeâs training and who will spend a lot of time bonding with the puppy. This person will naturally be âthe leader of the packâ in the puppyâs eyes. This person will be the puppyâs protector, provide support and boost confidence in new situations and be there to guide him through his first few years of life. The second person is command should follow the EXACT same training methods and techniques as the leader as to keep communication crystal clear and training consistent. See Caring For And Training Your New Miniature Pinscher Puppy for more. The same principles apply when adopting an adult dog and training needs to begin the moment you bring any dog or puppy home.
Leadership Is Not Dominance Theory
As weâve explained above, an effective human leader who employs effective training, doesnât need to use force as a dog or would or punishments for when your dog steps out of line. There are some light and gentle reminders or corrections you can borrow from dominance theory to integrate into your positive training. One of them is the use of prong collars and e-collars providing they are used in a non-abusive way (remember thereâs a fine line) and to indicate when the dog needs prompts when they are learning a new thing e.g. a prong collar as a gentle leader when lead-training (see below for a good example of this). With a normal collar you can use gentle âpopsâ as a correction.
See YouTuber Jason Corey for more training training tips
Basic Obedience Trainingđž
When you begin training your dog, you need to start with the basic commands. Training is best started in puppyhood from when the dog goes to his new home but a dog can be trained at any point in his life. Basic commands such as sit, lie down and stay are important ones to start with. For the Min Pin who wants to constantly move around and explore, you will need to teach them when to not do this and to sit down and relax e.g. if you are sitting with them at cafĂŠ or in a pub. Nobody wants to take an untrained dog on outings because they will be a nuisance you wished you left at home. The second thing you want to teach your Min Pin is recall. When Mikki was a puppy, through his separation anxiety he learned very quickly how to respond to coming when called. As he was raised in sunny southern Spain, he would be left to run for kilometres off the lead and he only had to be called once and he came back in an instant. This was the case because he was an insecure puppy which made him want to be close to me at all costs when he was outside. All I had to do to strengthen the recall was to capitalise on his anxiety and walk the other way and heâd coming rushing towards me and between my legs. Late one evening on the beach, during his terrible teen phase, I remember he started being cheeky and wouldnât let me re-attach the lead. Instead, he made me chase him around. I lost my rag and walked off then deliberately crossed a little bridge and when I did this, he couldnât figure out how to get to me as there was a large stream of water between us. He panicked and had a meltdown before I crossed the bridge again and re-joined him. His instinctive reaction was to immediately stick to me, cowering between my ankles, not letting me walk away from him. I attached the lead easily. Other times I’d resort to doing the same thing when he didn’t respond to my calls was when he was greeting other dogs and ignored me. Of course this is NOT the way to train or strengthen recall or proceed with any training. That was me not knowing what I was doing or how to train a dog correctly. Recall is a vital part of basic obedience especially if you want to allow your Min Pin to explore safely off-lead. There are a very high proportion of owners we see who allow their dogs off-lead routinely who have not taught them recall properly. This means that we get approached when we have Mikki on the lead by an over excited untrained dog when we don’t want it. This is highly inconsiderate as some owners may have nervous dogs on the lead who don’t want to be pestered by other dogs or dogs which may have serious aggression issues. What ends up happening is these owners have to physically steer their dog away from us embarrassingly. All because they are too lazy to train their dogs properly. We do believe this is a nationwide problem.
When you begin training always start at home. The reason you want to begin in an environment free of distractions is for your Min Pin, who is new to training, to understand the basics in an environment where he’ll be able to focus easily without much stimuli. From there, your dog will work his way up to more and more challenging environments with more distractions and stronger stimuli e.g. outdoors which means different smells and noises to other dogs being around etc. Your Min Pin will then eventually be programmed to follow your commands in every circumstance.
Focus
First thing you need to do is teach your Min Pin to focus on you. At home, you should be in a room free of distraction. Armed with food rewards, you should call his name and when he looks at you making eye contact, praise him and feed him his reward immediately. If your dog is watching the hand with the treat, wave it in your face and get him to make eye contact with you. You should ensure that when he is focusing he makes eye contact with you and not the treat. Practice this whenever he is engaged in doing something else by calling his name or saying something like “focus” or “look at me” to get his attention and ensure that you hold it. When he masters this every time, you’ve succeeded. Repetition is key here. Work up to busier and more distracting environments until finally, you are able to practice this command outside, around strangers, other dogs and novel surroundings where your dog will usually be most aroused.
Basic Commands
Teaching your Min Pin basic commands is essential for helping him focus on you better in general as well as during training. Your dog should learn these simple commands before you start him on more difficult training such as recall as they will be a valuable aid. As mentioned, practice these basic commands in different parts of your home or even in your garden if you have one. Your Min Pin will likely respond differently to the command depending on which area of the house he’s in. For example, he may be used to you training him in the living room but not the bedroom or kitchen. Maybe your corridor is a place of much arousal because it’s where the front door is which to him means walks. Like our Mikki, who found it hard to obey the sit command near the front door. It’s great if you can work up training outdoors in your garden because there are way more distractions, such as smells and sounds of wildlife but with the benefit of being a secure environment.
Sit
Armed with your treats, hover the treat over your Min Pin’s head and get him to follow it until his head is pushed back. This action will naturally cause him to sit and when he does you say “sit” and praise him while rewarding him the treat.
Lie Down
Lie down much like sit relies on you getting your Min Pin to focus on the treat. To make things easier, get him to sit then follow the treat by bringing it close to him and bring it down to the floor. When he’s in a lying down position, say “lie down”, praise and reward him. When youâve done a few practice drills, you can use your palm in a swift downward motion in front as you speak the command.
Stay
When your Min Pin knows how to sit or lie down on command, you can teach him to stay in position. When he is sitting, wait maybe 5 seconds and say “stay” before you praise and reward him. You build up to longer and longer times before he is given his praise and reward. This command should also be followed by a release command. This command is the one you need to teach your Min Pin if you want him to develop patience and self-control which are both essential things that he needs learn to become a well-behaved dog. For example, you can teach him to sit and wait when his meals are put down in front of him or do some obedience drills when you are playing with his favourite toys. When he is able to exercise patience and self-control through delayed gratification, he gets rewarded.
Release
This command teaches your Min Pin when he can end the action he is being made to perform. This is useful when you need him to stay put for a long period of time such as when you are sitting at a cafĂŠ or in a park. It does take much work and patience and it certainly won’t be mastered overnight. You can begin teaching a release command after he knows how to sit and stay and while doing so for 10 seconds, choose a word like ‘ok’ in a high pitched voice at the same time. Your dog should come running to you and when he does praise and reward. Work up to longer and longer stay times. This command is also popularly known as ‘break’ and you could use this word if you wish. When he is in the sit and stay command your dog will probably just get up when heâs had enough, at first. But you don’t want that. What you want is for him to get up when you say so. Tons and tons of practice and patience will go a long way to success.
Recall
Ideally only when your Min Pin has completed the above training, should he be ready for recall training. If your dog is not quite there with focusing on you in a busy environment such as outdoors, you can begin recall training in a safe indoor environment or your garden. Another option is a quiet outdoor space where there are very few distractions. When we started recall training, we bought a long lead typically called a training lead. We recommend a 10-metre lead or the longest you can get. This lead allows you control of your dog while you training him in distracting surroundings. So if he bolts off during a recall command you reel in the lead and pull him back to you, thus giving you control. Until your dog has perfect recall, you should be using the training lead. The basic premise of a training lead is that the dog believes he is free and off the lead. This is why you should allow it to trail along the ground or hold it letting it extend allowing your dog freedom (or the illusion of freedom) to a point until you are ready to do some recall drills. It is known (we’ve seen it with Mikki) that if dogs know they are on lead and restrained they are more likely to listen you but less likely to do so when off-lead. You should start by calling your Min Pin back when there are no distractions around and when he comes back, he gets rewarded. So for example when he does not respond to recall and instead runs to greet that other dog, you reel him back to you thus taking away the pleasurable behaviour.
You can attach the training lead while the normal lead is still attached so when you let him off the normal lead, he wonât realise you still have full control. Your dog MUST believe he is free because this is when you need him to listen to recall. So armed with the training lead attached and food rewards, you begin by calling your dog at short distance and rewarding and praise him when he comes. If successful, you gradually increase the distance until he succeeds. Just like focus training, keep stepping up the level of distractions in the environment. This’ll need tons of practice and patience, especially if your dog is an adult and has never had any sort of basic training.
Training leads which are also called long lines can come in a few different lengths between 5 metres and 20 metres usually. They are a vital tool for recall training allowing you control of your dog at the same time
Tricksđž
Hi five! Min Pins are very willing to learn tricks. Aside from strengthening their every day training, learning tricks is also a fantastic way to strengthen the bond your Min Pin. This breed has agile minds which can learn a variety of tricks quickly. The most common tricks we list here are the easiest and it’s best to start with them to build up your Min Pin’s confidence and focus before progressing onto harder ones. This is where the real fun begins! Once your dog has a good grasp of the basic commands, you can teach him these basic tricks. Remember that just like basic obedience repetition is key.Â
Give Me Paw/Shake Hands
Once in a sitting position, gently take one of your Min Pin’s paws and say “give me paw” or simply “paw” then praise and reward. Your Min Pin will probably get up from his sitting position when you do this, which is okay. After repetition, he will automatically raise his paw when you motion with your hand towards his feet because he knows that a treat is coming. When this happens or becomes too excited you stop until he calms down and you are both able to execute the trick properly. This is an exercise in patience for your dog as much as it is for you. If your dog is only giving one paw, you can teach him to give the other by going over the same steps. You can accompany it by another command such as “other paw”.
Roll Over
Tell your Min Pin to lie down, then hover the treat over his head and get him to follow the treat, much like above tricks but bring the treat to either the left or right side of his head and eventually he should naturally get onto his side. Your Min Pin probably won’t do a complete roll the first, second or fifth time. It took our Mikki at least 10 attempts or more before he rolled over completely. But you must praise and reward your dog every time he gets on his side because heâs half way there which is an essential part of the process of a roll. When he finally does a complete roll, you say “roll over”, give him lots of praise and reward. Mikki didnât do another roll after the first successful one. He needed a lot of reinforcing of this action.
Stand
This one’s a bit more complex because it involves your Min Pin sitting normally but with both paws raised. Some people may call this trick “sitting pretty”. With the method we used you’ll need to have taught your dog how to give both paws. So you speak the give paws command and when your dog performs the action of giving both paws, you take them and balance them on your hand or wrist. This should result in a half sitting position and this moment is when your reward your dog saying “stand”. Repeat these steps as many times as you need until he can perform this action by himself when hearing the word stand.Â
Balancing Treats On Head Or Nose
We like this one because it teaches dogs self control and patience aside from also looking incredibly cute! Your Min Pin should know how to sit and stay first. So began by taking a treat. Tell your dog to sit and gently take his snout in your hand to steady it and put the treat slowly onto it. While you do this, speak the stay command firmly so he’s more likely not to move. Continue to speak stay for about 5 seconds, then give him his release command.Â
Hand Stand
This is a really unique trick, at least, more so than the others. It certainly is a lot of fun as a party trick and requires your dog to work on their balance. Some of the team at Heathside have taught this trick to their dogs and every time it brings enjoyment and pleasure to see it performed-a great conversation starter amongst dog lovers! It is a bit more complex than the basic ones so it’s important to have plenty of patience with your Min Pin. As this trick puts pressure on the dog’s front legs it is not wise to teach it to your growing puppy, even more so if you have a large breed puppy. Instead wait till your Min Pin has completed their essential growth at a year old to be safe. There are a couple of ways you can teach this trick but essentially the end result will be your dog being able to do a hand stand using a surface, be it a wall, door, tree or anything else, as a balancing tool.Â
For the sake of simplicity we’ll outline teaching this trick at home. Grab yourself a healthy stack of books. The bigger your dog the more books you’ll need because he’ll be using them to place his back legs on as a crutch for the wall. Always reward and praise each desired action he performs
- Place one book against the wall and hover the food reward over your dog’s face ensuring he backs up just enough for one or both of his back feet to touch the book and when he does, reward and praise. If your dog doesn’t back up or simply sits get him to come forward, then guide him gently again, with the food reward, so he’s backing up until he touches the book. Practice backing him up and very quickly he’ll step onto the book with both back feet
- As he starts to back up by himself use a command to indicate you want him to perform that action such as “back”. Practice it until he’s made an association. At this point if he backs up on command without fully placing his back feet onto the book, do not reward and praise until he does so
- Ensure that your Min Pin gets used to placing his feet as far back on the book as possible rather than just the front of it
- Once your Min Pin knows how to back up onto the books on command the next step involves periodically adding more books. Start with two, three, four etc until his back feet are as far as he can comfortably reach
- Your Min Pin must be fully comfortable and properly trained with the above actions before the next step
- Remove the pile of books. Take one book and place one end against the wall at an angle holding it the same level/height as the pile, command your Min Pin and wait for him to back up and place his feet as far as he can go on the book. Note that the book must be against the wall and your Min Pin’s rear should be touching it
- Once practicing the above step until your Min Pin aces it then you can hold the book with both hands and speak the command. Periodically move the book higher, angling it slightly and do several practice trials until your Min Pin aces them. Keep rewarding and praising throughout
- You’ll come to a point where the book will be flat against the wall as a result of the angling and by this time your Min Pin’s back feet should be placed squarely on the book. At this point your Min Pin should be in a vertical position with his back feet on the wall. Repeat this step as many times as possible
- Remove the book and command your dog to back up against the wall. Viola! The result will be a perfect hand stand. Reward and lavish praise should follow each time you command this trick until your dog has become very experienced
You can apply this trick to many different surfaces or objects as well!
Training Your Min Pin To Walk Properly On A Leadđž
If your Min Pin has not been trained from puppyhood to walk properly on a lead you will likely have a puller on your hands. Like some small breeds Min Pins are known for being terrible lead pullers. It may be a familiar experience for you as a Min Pin owner to be dragged along by a dog desperate to get to that next lamppost to pee (yet again). And you may think so what? Because of a Min Pin’s diminutive size, it’s not a big deal. But it is a big deal. Taking any dog for a walk that pulls, whether or not they are small and slight, is going to be an unpleasant experience every single time both for you and your Min Pin. When a dog pulls on the lead especially if they are small it can cause a lot of damage to their sensitive windpipes. Just because you are used to it as an owner doesn’t make it right. Another common reason why toy breeds can be terrible on the lead is that because some owners never let them walk as puppies but instead carried them everywhere. Doing this will ensure you have a Min Pin who will constantly expect to be carried all the time and may even refuse to walk on a lead at all. If you never teach them, how will they ever learn? Lead training is a process that’ll likely require the most repetition and patience. Mikki used to have a problem with really bad lead pulling and we know of many Min Pin owners who have had the same problem (as well as many exasperated owners who hadn’t done anything about it). Min Pins also have this tendency, like a lot of active small breeds do, to criss-cross your path on a walk which can be hazardous for you both. The best place to begin training is on an actual walk around your neighbourhood or when the streets are not busy. Aside from getting quicker results with fewer distractions around for your Min Pin, you’ll be doing a lot of stopping and starting and you don’t want to get in anybody’s way or vice versa. For this exercise, you may want to use a harness as it gives you more control over your dog’s body and does not put pressure on their windpipes. Your Min Pin will learn not to pull on the lead whether you use a collar or harness after you follow the steps to lead training him below. Ensure the harness is not too tight but a snug fit so it’s not loose on his body. The training advice given below have helped us and other owners immensely and they follow the same positive reinforcement methods discussed above. This means you should never-
- Yank or strongly tug the lead as to get him to stop pulling. It does not work and causes your dog pain and possible injury. When he is outside in a state of arousal he’ll quickly get used to the pain of pulling in favour of controlling the pace of the walk. Your dog needs to understand how to walk correctly and that there is a better way
- Scream or intimidate your dog. You’ll just get a sore throat and your dog will become anxious as well as a puller which’ll make matters worse, trust us!
- Pick him up. This is the worst thing you can do as your dog will never learn to walk on a lead
A word on leads. You should be using a short lead to train your Min Pin with so he is right by your feet. If you are using an extendable or Flexi lead, you need to shorten until it is no longer extended then lock it into place. You should not use the extendable function until your Min Pin has learned to walk without pulling. Ensure you are armed with food rewards.
Method One
Begin walking and the moment you feel the lead tense which means your Min Pin is pulling, you stop dead. One of two things will then happen. Your dog will either try to continue walking and stand in a forward position until you start moving again or he’ll turn around and walk to you. If he turns around and walks to you praise and reward him. You must repeat this over and over and as many times as it takes. Ideally you should not wait for your dog physically to pull to take action; when you see he’s about to pull by his body language, you act before he does. We also paired this method with vocalisations. So when he pulls we’ll stop dead and say firmly “nah ah”. Your Min Pin may catch on quicker if you use words related to ‘no’. Once you try walking again and after just a few steps your dog walks slower without pulling, praise and reward him immediately. If he then pulls after that, you stop and vocalise again. Like Mikki, your Min Pin may have more difficulty controlling his enthusiasm and excitement with certain stimuli close-by like trees because they want to sniff and urinate. You must persevere. We taught Mikki that if he wants to stop at a tree he must not pull otherwise he would not a get a chance to do so. Every now and then when he pulls to get to where he wants to go, he just needs a quick reminder and immediately slow down or will rush back to our side.
Method Two
The second method is a popular one you may see supported by many positive reinforcement trainers. Initially the same steps are followed as in the first method except that instead of stopping the moment your dog pulls, you turn around immediately and begin walking in the opposite direction. As before, praise and reward when he can take a few steps without pulling.
Method Three: Focus
A third method combines the above except you get your dog to focus on you while walking. You should have completed focus training before you can incorporate focusing into your walks. Even if your dog can focus on you outdoors, you need to ensure he can do the same when he’s just come out of the house with all that pent up energy. This is a very useful method when your Min Pin is reactive around other dogs in the street and you want to avoid the inconvenience. As soon as you see your dog is about to pull you stop, get him to focus on you by calling his name ensuring he is looking at you in the eyes and praise and reward him when he does. When another dog is walking towards you, do the same focusing exercise.
Refusing To Walk On A Lead
There are several reasons why a dog may not want to walk on a lead. The first is that they are anxious or overstimulated when being outside because of all the sights, smells and sounds. Added to that if your Min Pin is an adult and is used to be carried most of the time, he may refuse to walk on a lead because he feels safer when in your arms. Maybe he is one of those stubborn dogs who simply refuses to walk or he could even dislike the restraining feeling of a harness around him or the pressure around his neck when being led. In this scenario you should allow him to go where he wants to go so he controls the walk initially. Take him to a park and practice there because the environment is more secure and hopefully has less scary noises such as those from traffic and people. If he sits or stands stationary in one place wait until he takes a few steps forward then praise and reward him immediately. Keep doing this to build up positive associations with the outdoors and being on a lead. The more you expose your Min Pin to this situation the more he’ll acclimatise but it’ll take time.
The Min Pin’s excitable nature can exacerbate issues with lead-pulling and response to training. You can see Mikki shown here around a year and a half really wants to get where he wants to go and his behaviour was the result of no proper training
Common Behavioural Problems And How To Resolve Themđž
Toy breeds like the Min Pin are susceptible to many behavioural problems due to lack of training as we’ve already discussed. However, the good news is these issues tend to be common ones that every dog has but can easily be put to an end with training. As with all the training we have discussed so far, we use positive reinforcement methods as the best way to train out these common problems in Min Pins.
Jumping Upđž
Dogs do this usually because they are excited and when they’re trying to be sociable with other people. This behaviour originates from when they are puppies when they used to have to jump up to interact with their mother, who was obviously much higher up as well as being a normal part of canine to canine social behaviour. When it is replicated with humans, it’s a friendly gesture however often an annoying one, usually for us owners but sometimes completely unacceptable for other people who may not be dog people or appreciate someone’s over-zealous dog jumping on them. So it’s also embarrassing. Small dogs may also jump up onto surfaces this to get food or to grab things they’re not supposed to touch. Never make these common mistakes when attempting to stop your Min Pin jumping-
- Do not push your dog off you with your arms or legs or with your body. He will think that you are being friendly and engaging in a game with him
- Scream or shout at him
Method One: Jumping Up On You
When your Min Pin jumps up or attempts to turn away from him immediately and keep doing so if he persists and ignore him completely. Ensure your body is rigid and you are not pushing him away with your legs at any point. Wait until he stops and the moment he does, you praise and reward him. This method will work whether you are standing up or sitting down. You should be familiar with the usual circumstances in which your dog jumps up and that’s almost always when he hasn’t seen you for a period of time such as when you come home from outside. So when this happens, you can speak the sit and stay command. That way you avoid the undesirable behaviour altogether.
Method Two: Jumping Up On Others
Go through the same steps as above with a family member or friend. Practice the training at different times and in different environments. Ideally, practice with as many people known to you as possible so when it comes to being sociable with strangers, his first instinct won’t be to jump up. Firstly while your Min Pin is in training to stop jumping up, he should not be allowed to be off-lead until he’s progressed to a point where he’s stopped the undesirable behaviour. When other people approach to say hello and pet him let them know immediately he’s actively in training and for them to respect that. Command your Min Pin to sit and make sure he stays before the person can pet him.
Barkingđž
Barking is a super annoying habit that can show up in just about any breed but toy breeds seem to be well-known for it. You would have heard of the expression yappy little dogs. It’s true that many small breeds love the sound of their own voice! Fortunately, it’s rare for the Min Pin to bark for no good reason and these little dogs tend to only bark when something has set off their anxiety. Min Pins as a breed on the whole are not very prone to barking like say, the Chihuahua, however they are also not the quietest of breeds either. It’s likely to be more dependent on the individual dog’s makeup whether or not they are likely to bark excessively. Some dogs will need very little stimulus to set off their barking and may continue with gusto to bark for long periods, whereas some will give a few barks then stop. Min Pins like any dog will bark for different reasons but as owners we really would rather they didn’t. That said, they can be vocal at certain times when thereâs an immediate problem e.g. separation anxiety (see below for more) or when something is commanding their attention, usually someone at the door, as this breed is territorial and will sound the alarm. Min Pins are not in our opinion ‘boredom barkers’ and when they do bark something has set off their anxiety however, by the same token, Min Pins can become anxious if they aren’t getting enough stimulation. First, have a think about whether or not your Min Pin is having their needs met by getting the appropriate level of exercise or mental stimulation each day. This can be in the form of play or a decent-length walk (s) where the dog smell different things rather than just 10 mins on the grass to eliminate himself. A Min Pin mentally and physically satisfied will be tired and likely spend the rest of the day sleeping rather than whining noisily for attention.
Method One: Assess The Situation Then Focus
Before you can train out barking, you must assess in what situations does your Min Pin bark. Almost always is barking a response to a certain stimulus or an accompaniment to a certain situation. When you know what these situations and stimuli are, you can then work on removing your dog from them which will eliminate the barking. Sometimes however, there may be unexpected stimuli in which case going back to the techniques used in basic obedience can really assist. An example where focusing is useful would be if your Min Pin is barking at someone at the door, get him to focus on you and use tons of praise and reward him if he continues to focus. You then put him on a stay command or remove him from the stimulus i.e. put him in another room away from the front door. If you have guests coming into the house, let them know your Min Pin’s in training and that it’s important that you ensure he stops reacting to the stimulus until he is calm. Don’t forget to praise each time he follows through successfully with a stay and focus command. You could for example in order to help create positive associations for anxious dogs with visitors, to have a treat bag by the door and do practice sessions with people you know to come in and have them reward and praise your dog while you have him on a stay command.
If your Min Pin is reactive to certain stimuli when he is looking out of the window for example, you can do some focus training. You must do the training on a consistent basis whenever your dog is exposed to the stimulus. When he barks wait for him to finish and call him to sit and focus on you and when he does, praise and reward him. The most important part of this training is praising and rewarding him the moment he doesn’t bark when he sees the stimulus. That’s the association he must make.
Method Two: Blocking The Bark
Barking outside is a response from your dog to an incoming stimulus. A good example is another dog approaching on a walk. What you must do is get your Min Pin’s attention and focus before he starts barking, so you’ll need to be alert and assess your environment. So when you see the stimulus you quickly distract your dog by getting him to focus on you. Use the food rewards as a focal point, feed and use praise as you continue walking towards and past the stimulus (in this case the other dog). Continue until the stimulus passes or is out of your dog’s space. This method can be arduous and but it works. For really reactive and easily aroused Min Pins, especially at the beginning of training, it’s best to turn around or walk away from the stimulus. Or you could cross the street if you have that option and do the focus training so your dog can still see the stimulus except he is at a distance and will be less reactive.
Method Three: Attention Barking
Barking can be an ingrained and addictive habit to get your attention because very often, it works. And so it will require strong incentives and persistence to resolve it. These simple and effective ways to approach barking works best with puppies and young dogs because they are most responsive and eager to learn.
- While your giving your dog attention you can walk away from him the moment he barks and ignore him until he stops, then come back to him
- Have a word that you use to let your dog know he’s doing wrong, such as ‘no’ or ‘nah ah’ said very firmly, while getting him to sit. When he does so, praise and reward immediately. This kind of distraction using basic obedience works well but does rely on your puppy or dog already knowing the basics
When dogs start chasing one another after their initial greetings it often means “let’s play and have fun”
Mikki greets another dog. The body langauge from Mikki here is one of excitement and wanting to play; relaxed tail wagging furiously and quick movements initiating play. The other dog’s posture shows friendiness and curiousity
Dog-Specific Aggressionđž
Min Pins can be naturally dominant and boisterous towards other dogs large and small. However interactions with other dogs are usually okay if it results in play even if the other dog is dominant. Sometimes the posturing that happens between the two dogs is just them sorting out who’s top dog and doesn’t always involve true aggression even though to us it can look like so, as when dogs are play-fighting. Sometimes however, the meeting can quickly escalate into something serious. This is why it’s very important to pay attention to your Min Pin’s body language when he’s greeting another dog. Signs to watch out for include-
- Stiff posture standing up straight with chest out
- Raised hackles along the back
- High-positioned tail wagging in a fast-moving and stiff manner
- Alert expression and complete unwavering focus on the other dog
- Forward-facing ears
- Usually a slow, considered approach to the other dog
- Either have an open mouth with panting or a closed one
Dogs who show dog-specific aggression are known as ‘dog-reactive’ and the reasons are that they are often either fearful of other dogs and insecure or territorial, with the behavioural problem resulting by either-
- Poor or not enough dog on dog socialisation in puppyhood and adolescence- see here for more. This is the reason dogs become fearful of other dogs in adulthood and react with fear aggression. As a puppy, they did not get a chance to learn how to behave around other dogs and understand vital communication signals. Aggressive social cues a dog learns as a puppy and adolescent include growling, snarling, lip curling, staring fixedly, standing forward and this happens all before the dog lunges for an attack. Thus as adults, poorly-socialised dogs ignore warning signals from other dogs and are attacked, perpetuating their anxiety and fear aggression time after time. Sometimes owners are overprotective of their toy breeds as puppies because of their size and as a result do not give them a chance to adequately socialise with other dogs
- Your dog could have had a bad experience or several bad experiences with another dog where they were attacked and since then, you may have stopped any further contact with unknown dogs. Lack of exposure to other dogs will only serve to strengthen and crystallise the fear
- Your dog is naturally more territorial and insecure and has a stronger desire to protect his space and even his owner from other dogs. Possessiveness of the owner isn’t uncommon in some toy breeds
You know your own dog and how severe his dog on dog aggression is and in what circumstances they arise. Methods of dealing with dog on dog aggression will involve managing the problem by reducing chances of injury or fights with other dogs outside and this means keeping him on a lead at all times and no free roaming. This is for his safety and the safety other dogs. However, if you want to take steps to resolve the aggression, you have to actively work on it by allowing controlled meetings with other dogs. Because of the nature and potential complexity of this problem, the best thing to do is to work with a trainer to resolve your Min Pin’s problem however, start using the following method yourself.
Method One: Controlled Meetings
You can while keeping your Min Pin on a lead at all times, set up meetings with other dogs. Not random dogs you see out and about however. These dogs should be properly socialised or non-aggressive dogs. The idea is that through exposure and over time, your dog begins to slowly form positive associations with other dogs therefore easing his anxiety. Allow your dog to be in the company of other dogs and any time you see neutral non-aggressive behaviour from your dog, reward and praise him lots. Avoid dog parks. The reason is that they often contain many dogs off-lead who do not have adequate socialisation and improper or no training and owners use them as a ‘free-for-all’ environment for dogs to mingle.
Urinating And Marking In The House And Other Indoor Placesđž
This is a common problem in toy dogs although not specific to Min Pins. The problem is behavioural meaning there is something that is negatively affecting your dog which has caused anxiety and resulted in him urinating inside the house. This could be due to your dog feeling insecure because there’s more than one dog in the household and he doesn’t like it. It’s possible that over-arousal and exciting in unfamiliar indoor settings can cause urination too. But another reason is more specific to intact (un-neutered) male dogs in which case the term for this is ‘urine marking’. Intact females can also mark too especially close or on their heat cycles. This is territorial behaviour but neutered dogs can also mark in particular if they were neutered later in life, as the behaviour was already ingrained. It’s important to mention that neutering a dog before sexual maturity doesn’t necessarily resolve urinating indoors either and can indeed make it more likely. More on this here. Many people erroneously think that neutering is the one solution that will solve urinating indoors for good which is simply not true. This is because it can be complex. Mikki has a problem with urine marking inside the house due to some anxiety issues but the behaviour is strengthened because he is intact.
So assuming your Min Pin is housebroken and neutered, the behaviour is likely caused by something heâs not happy about. In Mikki’s case, he’s been known to pee when he’s left alone for a few hours or when we’ve decided to go into another room for a while. Mikki has had separation anxiety for most of his life so it makes sense. But also frustration from boredom is something that can amplify anxiety in dogs which can result in other behavioural issues like destructive chewing as well as urinating. If a dog urinates as a response to anxiety and it becomes habitual, it won’t matter whether or not he’s neutered. If your Min Pin is doing this and you’ve cleared him of medical issues like UTI’s (which can cause them to urinate in random places) then it’s time to address the problem. You need to be honest about what could be bothering him and take steps to fixing the cause by trying out different things. If the urination is a symptom of your Min Pin’s separation anxiety problem then you need to address that instead. Speak to your vet for advice. The solutions below only deal with managing the problem of indoor urination.
Method One: Catching Your Dog In The Act
If you know when your dog is going to urinate indoors you will be able to catch him in the act of doing so. There’s a bit of trial and error here. Supervise him and see if he urinates in your presence and if he doesn’t, find a way to ensure he cannot see you while you can still see him. When you see he’s about to urinate, you firmly speak a word that means ‘no’ so he knows it’s wrong. You can use behavioural deterrents or interrupters such as compressed air which work by startling your dog but beware that these are aversive tools. If you dog has already let out some urine, always use a cleaner without ammonia e.g. not bleach to clean up any urine.
Method Two: Crating While You Are Away
Although Mikki’s crate-training was incomplete in puppyhood, he did use one up until very recently (at the time of writing this). We used to crate him while we were out which protected against urination all over the house. Line the crate with newspaper as you would if your dog was a puppy as well as all around the crate in case he gets urine outside of it.
Method Three: Urinating In Other Indoor Places
Although Mikki marks outside every few seconds we’ve had him marking inside pet shops. The most effective way to deal with this is using basic obedience by commanding your dog to either sit and stay in position while you browse the shop or keep him on a very short lead next to you.
Method Four: Belly Bands/Hygiene Pants
Mikki wears a belly band (see below) inside the flat now. It has been an extremely useful tool in preventing him from getting urine all over the flat. It’s important to understand a belly band does not stop the behaviour of marking but it does protect your furnishings and anything else that the dog may mark. This means we can now leave him for as long as we want by himself without having to worry about urinating. However if you use them, you must be aware that your dog will need his belly band changed often. We recommend you buy more than one. There will also be some care involved. You should check to see if it’s soiled often and if it is, remove and put it in the washing machine. Your dog will need to be cleaned up immediately to avoid the urine causing skin burns before you put a clean belly band on. You can use either pet wipes or baby wipes or a clean rag with water to clean up your dog. Do not use any soaps that are not suitable for a dog skin. A belly band is very easy to fit and the ones we have come with absorbent washable pads to place on the inside. We thoroughly recommend belly bands if you have an intact serial marker. The equivalent can be obtained for female dogs which are called hygiene pants, a product that is commonly used for when they come into season to protect her from unplanned breedings and can also be used for urine marking.
The belly band has a velcro strip so you can easily put it on and take it off and make it as loose or as snug as you need, as well as having a felted inside. Mikki plays and sleeps quite happily wearing it so we know he’s comfortable. See here for more information on purchasing belly bands
Separation Anxietyđž
Separation anxiety, unfortunately, can be a problem in many breeds and the Min Pin is one of them. Dogs are highly sociable animals and enjoy being part of a pack or a unit almost all of the time. When that is taken away temporarily, they can become highly stressed and insecure. We know of Min Pin owners who have had to put with their anxious dog causing a noise nuisance for their neighbours while they’re out, including us. Some owners come home and find their dog has destroyed their soft furnishings through destructive chewing and have urinated and defecated on the floor. All of these are symptoms of separation anxiety. It’s a very stressful situation for both parties. Owners can begin to feel imprisoned in their home because their dog won’t let them leave (like we did). Anxious dogs will quickly learn to pair everyday activities such as you putting on your outdoor clothes or picking up your bag with leaving them alone in the house which can cause premature anxious behaviour, such as whining. Our Mikki had had this problem since he was a puppy for several years. This is largely because he was not crate-trained in the correct way and was left alone for long periods without having his anxieties seen to. It’s only recently that we changed our lifestyle and routine that Mikki now feels a lot more secure and is happier generally. The reasons for separation anxiety in your dog can be complex and can include-
- Improper or incomplete training in puppyhood whereby your dog was not taught how to be confident and secure by themselves resulted in separation problems in adulthood. This is the number one reason for separation anxiety problems
- A strong attachment to either you or one person in the household that provides most of the attention and affection to your dog. This can cause separation anxiety when that ‘special’ person isn’t around, even if other people or dogs in the household are. Min Pins are affectionate and attention-seeking dogs that love to be involved with whatever you are doing
- Boredom and excessive energy. Min Pins are naturally very active and need mental and physical stimulation. They are not happy to lay around and stare at the wall all day. Just because they are a small, non-working breed doesn’t mean that they do not have the same needs as a breed that is. Not meeting their needs in this area will augment any separation anxiety that they have as they are more likely to be bored while you’re gone
These are the most common reasons for separation anxiety overall and they can show up in dogs that you’ve had from a puppy or a dog that you’ve adopted from a shelter. It is also just another vital element of training that was missed, just as there are many dogs who have sadly missed out on obedience training. When their Min Pin shows signs of separation anxiety many owners do not know how to effectively tackle this problem and resort screaming or punishing their dog because they think he’s being naughty and having fun being wilfully destructive. This can make your dog more anxious especially being that Min Pins are so sensitive. As an owner, you really need tons of patience and we are speaking as owners who’ve been there. The most effective way to train your dog to cope with being alone is to progressively leave him alone for longer and longer periods to build up his confidence. If your Min Pin is a puppy, then see here for how to crate train him properly. Below, we will discuss the most tried and tested methods of resolving separation anxiety.
Step 1: Creating Positive Associations
If you leave your dog in a crate or isolate him in a particular room that he’s only in when you’re gone, it’s important to understand that doing so can exacerbate his separation anxiety. Many owners who don’t let their dog free roam the house when they’re gone tend to use a spare room and put the crate in there or the kitchen. These ‘special’ areas have strong associations with you leaving from your dog’s perspective. Imagine if every time your anxious dog is led to an area that you only put him in when your about to leave him, you’d expect him to throw a fit even in anticipation. Therefore it is vital to ensure that you either create positive associations with the area you leave him in or by changing the area which he is left or moving the crate to a different area (if possible). If you leave your dog in a part of the house such as a communal room where you often hang out with him, play and have cuddles, he is far more likely to be relaxed.
Step 2: Assess His Anxiety
Before you take steps to train out separation anxiety you need to do an assessment on your Min Pin to see how long he can handle being alone, as well as how much distance he is comfortable with before he starts becoming distressed. You should begin by placing your Min Pin in different parts of the house where he can and sometimes cannot see you. If he has a crate lock him in there in the same room as you where he can see you. Then do the same in a different room where he can’t see you but can hear you. You can use devices to watch or record your Min Pin when he is in a separate room from you to see how he’s doing. You should make notes of how long he can be by himself in these different situations before he begins to show symptoms of separation anxiety.
Step 3: Begin The Training
You should now begin the training already knowing the maximum amount of time your Min Pin can be alone for. Do not go over that time for the initial training. We recommend starting with leaving him for 30 seconds to start with. Put your dog in his crate or a room that he’s usually in when you leave the house. Let him see or hear that you’ve done the usual ritual of going out e.g. picking up your bag and keys and leave out the front door. Wait 30 seconds. Come back and give your Min Pin lots of praise and rewards. Repeat the process only this time you’re away for a minute. And so you continue this process and work up to longer and longer isolation times. It’s very important to stick to this training every single day and you’ll also need to make changes to your daily schedule if you want your dog to succeed at this training. It’ll be 100% worth it, trust us.
For each individual dog, depending on how anxious they are, the process may take a longer or shorter time for them to understand that you are coming back and are not disappearing forever. You may be only be able to leave him for 3 seconds if he is super anxious. This process will take tons of practice and lots of time.
Toys To Help With Separation Anxiety
There are tried and tested products on the market to help your dog in times of separation anxiety. The objective is to give your dog something to focus on and usually the most stimulating toys involve food. Amongst these are Kong toys which we’ve tried ourselves and recommend. They are made of strong rubber and are mostly designed to withstand hours of chewing. You can fill a Kong with your Min Pin’s favourite treats or even give some or all of his meals in them while you’re out. Giving a Kong to your Min Pin would be ideal for keeping his mind busy while he’s in training for separation anxiety. The act of chewing helps a dog greatly to reduce stress and relaxes them. Other toys include treat balls but they’re not as robust as Kongs which are not only designed to be filled easily with a range of recipes but can also frozen for later. Kongs or any other toys should not be used in place of training.
Medications To Help With Separation Anxiety
Typical medications for use in humans to treat depression such as SSRI’s have been used successfully in veterinary medicine for a while including the in treatment of separation anxiety in dogs. These medications include fluoxetine and clomipramine amongst others and can be very effective however, it is our firm belief that they should be used in conjunction with training. As a supplement and not as a plaster or as a quick fix. The correct medications can ease your Min Pin’s mind to a point where he is relaxed and in an emotionally balanced state to learn new desirable behaviours. You should speak to your vet about using medications for your Min Pin and he/she may advise that you speak to animal behaviourist, who may be able to provide more thorough advice on what’s best for your dog.
Natural Remedies To help With Separation Anxiety
If medication is not suitable for your dog, natural remedies may be able to help him through training. There are many different products available from treats that claim to calm your dog to pheromone sprays and diffusers. The latter products work by releasing chemicals mimicking those that are species-specific and translate as reassuring and comforting messages. The efficacy of these products is patchy (just as many human supplements are) but that’s not to say you cannot get some good ones. Finding a natural remedy that actually works is about trial and error, some products apparently working for some owners while other owners have no luck. We advise that you definitely do your research and once again, remember that natural remedies are supplements to proper training.
Destructive chewing is indicitive of a behavioural issue which needs to be addressed immediately
Hiring An Animal Behaviourist
Perhaps your Min Pin’s separation anxiety has reached a point where you need professional help. Perhaps he’s already several years into adulthood and he still has really bad separation anxiety which is beyond your capability to deal with by yourself. Training out a behavioural problem is highly time and energy consuming and if you feel you need help to resolve your dog’s problem, hiring a behaviourist can be the best thing you can do for both you and your dog. A dog behaviourist will work with you and your vet (providing your vet is in the picture with your dog’s problem) on a tailor-made comprehensive plan to help your dog develop that confidence he needs and end your struggles. These professional services will cost from several hundred pounds and it’s worth noting that you will have to do your bit in your dog’s training as well. Ensure that you research well and communicate as much as you can with any behaviourist and if possible, obtain free consultations before you commit to any payment. We at Heathside Miniature Pinschers always advise you to speak to your vet first before you undertake any training for behavioural issues.Â